Automatic Watches: 8 Things You Need to Know

Over the years, automatic watches have grown in popularity within the watch enthusiast community. Despite often having a higher price tag, the need for a modern yet sophisticated timepiece is well worth the additional cost. From the classic gentlemen to the modern businessman, an automatic timepiece from prestigious brands like Rolex or Omega is guaranteed to make a statement.

At one point in history, all watches worn by the elite and working man alike, were mechanical and required manual winding in order to be powered. But, as horology (watch making) evolved, so did timepieces.

Most of us don’t ponder the intricate details of our watches, nor have a deep understanding of the tiny movements within that help us stay on schedule, but there are many moving parts that make up each and every watch. Like mini works of art placed at the end of our arms, these beautiful and sophisticated pieces are rightly respected across the world of fashion.

While these timepieces are worn by many, not all understand the relationship and differences in how mechanical and automatic watches create or are given the kinetic (movement) energy so they can keep time.

Mechanical watches work like mini engines that need to be manually wound up to work. The mechanical watch movement is typically wound via the crown (the winder on the side of the watch). From here, the mainspring is tightened inside the watch and that tension is incrementally released and, through a maze of springs and gears, powers the watch. What makes an automatic watch, different and arguably better is that it does not need to be wound, they utilise the motion of your wrist and from there a weighted rotor on the surface of the watch spins on an axle and in doing so, winds the mainspring which in turn powers your watch.

Things to know about automatic watches

1)    Automatic watches have been around since the 1770s

For centuries, the statement timepiece was a pocket watch. As a sign of sophistication and status amongst the gentlemen of the era. Since they were small and easy to carry, most men could keep them neatly tucked into a waistcoat pocket and removed them to read the time with ease. Over time, as the world of fashion evolved, so did our dependence on pocket watches.

During WWI, pocket watches also fell out of favour as pilots and soldiers clearly could not reach into their pocket to look at a watch every time they needed to read the time. This called for a rebranding of the timepiece. With the timepiece now placed along the wearer’s wrist instead of their pocket, the energy was easily and efficiently transferred into the timepiece. This allowed for the intricate mechanisms to be powered, and resulted in an accurate watch. After becoming more widely available in the 1920’s by Hardwood’s, automatic movements were introduced into these new styles and was a massive hit with men and women alike.

2)    There are 5 main components inside of an automatic watch

Mainspring

The mainspring, as you might have guessed by the name, is the main power source of an automatic watch movement. This spring is a coiled strip of metal that, when it is wound tightly by the swaying of the rotor, stores energy and slowly releases energy as it unwinds. This energy is then transferred through the gears, causing the watch to tick.

Crown

If you were to look at the outside of a watch you would see a small wheel-like gear called a crown. This crown, when pushed into the frame of the watch, can be turned to manually set the hands or date.

Gear Train

When the mainspring transfers its energy through the watch mechanics, it passes through the gear train. These are a series of small gears that make the watch hands and other parts of the watch face and hands move.

Escapement

Much like an internal braking system, the escapement divides the time into the equal “ticks” and allows the watch to show the time accurately. The action of the escape wheel releasing the energy by the gear train is called a Swiss lever escapement and is still widely used to this day.

Rotor

Within the watch, there is a circular, metal weight that is called the rotor. The rotor is attached to the movements centre and swings freely as your wrist moves. Why does it move freely when you move? To transfer power to the mainspring and as that twists, power is generated. When the mainspring is fully wound, as mentioned above, a clutch attached to the rotor is engaged which prevents the rotor from winding the mainspring further.

3)    Automatic watch parts can be transformed into alternative pieces of jewellery

Watch parts are not only practical, but they are also beautiful and intricate. A perfect example of fine watch jewellery is vintage Omega Watch Cufflinks and Rolex Watch Cufflinks. These watch cufflinks proudly display the watch movements and are the perfect addition to any gentlemen’s outfit. From silver to rose gold, watch cufflinks offer a great gift for the men in your life or as a designer treat for yourself.

4)    Automatic watches can come in a range of finishes

When it comes to designing and building a luxury timepiece, there is a vast and endless range of materials available for a gentleman to choose from. Of course, each brand of watch – from Rolex to Patek – opt for their own finishes, metals and gems. A timepiece is made out of multiple materials and these all factor into the final price and finish.

The most common materials found in watches are ceramic, titanium, stainless steel and steel. The materials that make up a watch both inside and out, determines its longevity and also its aesthetic appeal.

5)    Automatic Watches are ‘heavier’ than Mechanical Watches

Many watch enthusiasts know that you can tell a lot about a watch by its weight. Generally, automatic watches are slightly heavier and bulkier than quartz or mechanical watches. Naturally, this is due to its weighted rotor and additional mechanics. They are more complex and require more mechanics to run smoothly. The feel on the watch on the wrist is an important factor to keep in mind when deciding which watch you are looking to purchase.

The weight of an automatic watch can be appealing to some, especially when the design and brand matches your suit perfectly, but it also means your wrist may feel over-encumbered and weighty. It all depends on your personal preference and individual style. However, there are a vast array of sizes and styles to choose from.

6)    Automatic watches are a symbol of quality watchmaking

Watches and earlier timepieces have been a symbol of status and style for centuries. Timepieces can make strong statements about the person wearing them, with many wearing different watches for multiple occasions that indicate their style and wealth. The beauty and engineering of an automatic movement is incomparable and it takes a very skilled and knowledgeable watchmaker to build a precise, reliable and elegant automatic movement. A quality automatic watch will not only be with you for years to come, but it will also catch the eye of watch collectors and enthusiasts alike. Watches are always a conversation starter.

7)    Automatic Watches can become more valuable with time

When we make big purchases in our lives, like artwork or cars, there is a risk they may depreciate. However, unlike a car, the value of a quality automatic watch usually improves with time. Given that every one of these intricate, automatic watches can sustain their performance for decades with good servicing, if cared for correctly, you are making an investment in a piece that could increase in value for years to come. High-end materials combined with luxury brands and quality craftsmanship are just some of the reasons why a watch may increase in worth as it becomes increasingly more valuable the older it gets.

8)    Automatic watches have a Power Reserve

While automatic watches can last for years, their power does not. This is where a power reserve comes into play. On average, a fully wound automatic watch possesses between 36 and 42 hours of energy before it needs to be wound again. A watch’s power reserve is the amount of time a mechanical watch will run after it’s fully wound.

There are certain automatic watches that possess a power reserve of up to ten days, but these are exceptional. A manual-wind watch can have a reserve between 48 hours and 15 days. Some modern automatic watches include a power reserve indicator that, conveniently, lets you know how much power the watch still has remaining. While these are far more crucial in hand-winding watches and not automatic as they should run as long as you keep on wearing them, it’s still useful to know how much power you have left when your watch is on the nightstand or winder.

Watch jewellery experts

Automatic watches are popular in the luxury watch market for men and women alike. These practical pieces of art are made from the finest materials and can be adored for decades to come. Since they have such a rich heritage and do not need to be wound they are often chosen over manual and quartz watches.

If you are looking for the perfect luxury gift for the men in your life, then take a look at the George Fox Cufflinks collection of designer Watch Cufflinks. Our team of skilled jewellers have been making beautifully designed cufflinks for over 10 years and handcraft pieces from Rolex, Omega, Audemars, Patek and many more.

If you are interested in seeing our collection or want to know more about our designer watch cufflink collection, visit us at georgefoxcufflinks.co.uk .